Designers Michael and Nicole Colovos’ take on the Helmut Lang girl has long been about urban androgyny; this spring, however, they’ve taken a feminine approach, with lots of chiffon and even lace (gasp!). But rather than take those ladylike inclinations toward a girlish destination, the two kept things clean and graphic. By splicing angular panels of those softer materials into moto jackets and slouchy drop-crotch pants, the duo presented a mostly draped collection of peekaboo knits, perforated leathers and crochet leggings that had an intriguing industrial inspiration, as in digital prints of concrete, crinkled foil and cellophane. (Spring sees the launch of a new denim-focused collection, too, also named Helmut Lang.)
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