Saturday, October 1, 2011
As one of the leading figures in popular music, Kanye West is a cultured man. Rubbing shoulders with Marc Jacobs, rapping about Pheobe Philo, sitting front and centre at Givenchy and having night out's with Carine Roitfeld, it was more than inevitable that he would fully immerse himself in the world of fashion. No, he hasn't retired as a rapper, but he now adds the title of "designer" to his name.
Shrouded in mystery, West debuted his very first collection during Paris fashion week, and if the crowd there was anything to go by, (Azzedine Alaïa, Joseph Altuzarra, Alexander Wang, Dean and Dan Caten and Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, Anna Wintour...) this was a major show. So let's get to the clothes- were they any good? My answer is yes.
Naturally, I could sense more than a few inspirations- Gareth Pugh, (in the draping and layering) Céline, (in angular crispness) Alexander Wang, (in the sportiness) BCBG Max Azria, (in the slashed body-con) Balmain (in the rocker chic)- but that's kind of what you would expect from someone who's as much of a follower of fashion as West. I did have an issue with some of the fabric choices, (fur especially) but I highly doubt this was a collection intended for non-celebs. Critics have noted that the collection suffered from ill-fitting, and one hopes this will be cleared up before it hits retail, but even with mixed reviews from (snooty) fashion critics, I admit this was a promising collection.
Friday, September 30, 2011
So with a reported five or so benches collapsing, the drama and suspense began at Balenciaga's Spring 2012 runway show before the clothes had even come out. When they did however, in true Balenciaga-style, they were something to talk about.
Designer Ghesquière certainly pushed the silhouette with the last five or so dresses in the collection, and while I never got those, the pieces that came before were impressive. Quotidian color-blocked jackets were a highlight, their shoulders exaggerated and masculine. Everything here came off like haute couture, and really, Ghesquière would have it no other way.
Clean and minimalistic, the collection from Hussein Chalayan utilised a free, loose silhouette, with an emphasis on masculine, boxy jackets.
The collection started in monochrome before bursting into soft yellows and erstwhile prints, before shifting back to all whites. It's a collection that was definitely more function than form, something we don't always get from the couture master.
Continuing the label's weirdness, the Spring 2012 collection from the house of Margiela was all about the deconstruction of clothes; really, nothing new to the label. But what was most definitely fresh about the collection was how wearable most all the pieces were. From the slip-dresses that opened the collection to the masculine coats through-out, this collection was surely aimed to impact retail. And I don't see why it shouldn't.
Wednesday, September 21, 2011
With interesting shapes, and a loose silhouette, the colourful collection from 3.1 Phillip Lim for Spring 2012 was well-tailored and light.
Sportswear seemed to be a point of reference; but with some gorgeous silk pants, (and nifty use of nylon) as Lim described backstage, it was all about "sophisticated youth." With loose panels, there was an unfinished edge through-out, but it was still all very chic.