Saturday, February 11, 2012

Fall 2012: Helmut Lang

Looking at the Fall 2012 Helmut Lang collection, it's somewhat astounding that it is only the second season for which Nicole and Michael Colovos are at the helm. There's so much confidence here, it seems like the work of seasoned designers.
It was an experiment that wasn’t too dangerous- sharply cut black blazers, lots of leather and thigh-high wedge boots; an edgy display of urban chic. These guys are onto something, here...

Fall 2012: Jason Wu

With lots of Chinese influences, the Fall 2012 collection from Jason Wu was not only stately and well-tailored, but sober (by his standards) and quite impressive. "Military" seems an early trend for Fall, and Wu played that up with sharp jackets and poncho-like coats.
Gone were the ruffly young-socialite dresses; in its play we had grown-up sophistication, and a hell of a lot of studded accessories.

Friday, February 10, 2012

Best of Pre-Fall 2012: Balmain

Talk about re-invention! Entirely abandoning the DIY aesthetic of Christophe Decarnin's Balmain, Olivier Rousteing's vision is still very luxe, but decidedly more polished and- GASP!- over-size. At least, for pre-Fall it is.
He's used the word "comfy" to describe the collection, and i'd have to agree it certainly looks it- blazers and jackets came in men's proportions, while pajama pants were made from quilted silk and in the most gorgeous of prints. Bravo.

Fall 2012: Peter Som

Starting with all white pieces, the Fall 2012 collection from Peter Som shown during New York Fashion Week this morning was perfect. It was full of opposites, the most obvious being masculine and feminine, and while it had the usual Som-esque frills and frippery, it was a very chic and sober collection, one that , at times, recalled Balenciaga-like shapes.