Thursday, January 27, 2011
So what can I say about Paul Smith's Fall 2011 menswear collection, other than that the clothes were impeccably tailored and looks impeccably styled? Nothing, really, cuz they were. Smith's modus operandi is to mix vintage with modern; it's a tried and true formula, really, and oh does it work. Just open any random GQ of the last 5 years and you'll see what I mean.
I loved the outerwear, the coats and jackets and cardigans, and how they added dimension and that necessary sartorial heft that the modern man definitely needs. Trousers too, were fitted, freely allowing movement, while the layering was just perfect; not too done, not too under-done.
Wednesday, January 26, 2011
Tribal-esque, urban, and completely dark, Rick Owens's vision of that "man who would go the extra mile to protect and provide for his family" roamed everywhere for Fall 2011. Monks, samurais, Egyptian slaves- somehow, they were all here in this collection, transmuted, of course, by Owens' bizarre blackness.
The coats, jackets and robes were cut, slashed, and sewn beautifully; indeed, they were spectacular, and I really can see quite a few of these flying of the shelves.
With a slight whiff of the Victorian, the Fall 2011 menswear collection from Ann Demeulemeester was dark, to say the least. Layering was the other more obvious motif, with angular-cut jackets, all superbly done, framing the body, forming looks that were truly edgy.
Through-out, colour was let in the admittedly monochromatic design aesthetic, but never light, if you get my drift. "It's not deconstruction," the designer said in a backstage interview before the show. "It's a new way to give movement."
It's important, that when discussing designers like Galliano, to also discuss the purpose of a collection, other than that of presenting clothes. For Galliano, ideas seem just as important, even more so, too, entire cultures.
With his new 2011 Fall collection for his menswear line, the designer went as far back as what seems to be the age of Vikings, before quickly sifting through 21st-century ballet.
If you're unfamiliar with his aesthetic, surely, the looks presented through-out may seem jarring. But, coming back to my earlier point, this is a designer who really shouldn't be taken literally or at face-value. Look deeper and you'll see exactly what you need to- wearable clothes. And on that note, this collection was chock-full of them. Heavy on coats, whether made from furs or leather, the Arabian-esque pieces towards the end of the collection were absolutely beautiful. And never one to leave out the not-so-brave fashion lover, Galliano threw a few 60's-style suits in for good measure. A winning collection this was, from start to finish.