Tuesday, September 29, 2009
Alberta Ferretti took a breathtaking modern Edwardian turn, accentuated by a dusty palette of soft blush, lilac, slate gray and lemon. But Ferretti didn’t overindulge in romantic reveling; the collection exuded controlled sophistication right down to the models’ fresh-scrubbed faces and minimal accoutrements.
The backdrop for Lagerfeld's show was a gauzy scrim etched with flowers that ran up and over the length of the runway, forming a canopy of sorts, signaling the designer’s newfound lightness, and a feeling decidedly more romantic than most of his work for Fendi.
The collection had all the right elements- dreamy palettes, faded pastels, controlled volume... But for some reason, I particularly didn't care for the pieces one way or the other. Maybe it was its lack of direction, maybe it was the lingerie motif which added nothing to the pieces, but largely, it was an empty collection- full of sound and fury, signifying nothing.
The camping mise-en-scène that appeared once the curtains parted at the Dsquared show was the indication that Dan and Dean Caten were headed to the Great Outdoors. Of course, Dsquared is never about anything less than sexpot glamour, so if the boys are going to tackle lumberjack flannel, they are swaddling it around the body, blanket-like, creating a chic bustier dress. Boy Scout shirts? Those are cut tight and unbuttoned just so. And the designers worked a major rain-proof theme to boot- everything from denim to HotPants to big, pouf ballgowns came coated or encased in slick plastic. Punching things up another fun, frisky notch were kitschy accessories: trucker hats, gigantic backpacks and gemstone neckwear in the shape of insects. (Bug embellishments, sprinkled on dresses and tops, were a theme throughout.) And those nely vertiginous studded stiletto heels? Gorgeous!
Sunday, September 27, 2009
Donatella might have told everyone that her new collection was inspired by Tim Burton's Alice in Wonderland (out next year), but anyone familiar with the Versace label, knows that this was a collection that added beautifully to the general aesthetic of the brand- sexy, über-chic, confident and very commercial.
There was plenty to love from this collection- vivid pastels, geometric prints, short-short skirts, and slinky, sexy chain mail- but what was even more otable about the collection was how sure-footed and classy it felt.
To say that Raf Simons does not cater to the glamorous is an understatement. His collections for the house of Jil Sander prove this. Take their 2010 spring/summer collection- eschewing trends and fashion, the clothes allowed layers of fabric to peel back, left hanging in patches. Linen and gauze tailoring were patched together in very interesting, almost geometric sheer and opaque zones, while knitwear was manipulated into complex conceptual surface patterns to conceal and reveal skin in unexpected ways. Fabrics were natural-looking, and the tone of the collection was organic and minimal.
While some will debate the wearability of the clothes, anyone who is the least aware of the Raf Simons aesthetic knows that that's one aspect of fashion and design Simons isn't concerned with. In fact, a better argument that can be posited is that this collection proves how much Simons has gotten away in insisting on the freedom to experiment with Jil Sander. And as we all know, that is always welcome.
With de rigueur trompe l'oeil and surreal touche, the 2010 spring/summer collection from Moschino was similar to that of their Cheap and Chic line in its eschewing of anything of real depth for a collection that was heavy on whimsy. There were crystals and colorful stones, accessorized with bangles on both wrists, gold hoop earrings, heart-shaped hats... It was a very upbeat-looking parade of girls coming down the runway, and who to tell, maybe this is what fashion needs right now...
With giant organza carnations decorating models' shoes and bags that read, rather loudly,"Fashion is full of chic," , the collection from Moschino Cheap and Chic was just that- loud. Some of the pieces felt a little too campy, or maybe the collection was a little too light on thought for my taste. Still, the effervescence of the pieces' bright Pop colours struck a very whimsical note.