In a vacuum, Miuccia Prada's 2010 spring/summer collection was beautiful and focused. It made for an inviting palate-cleanser concocted from her trademark motifs- tailored, tacky, minimal, decorated, beachy, scenic-prints- into something that felt familiar yet fresh. Most significantly, it felt like a bridge to somewhere else.
Still, the elements of the collection impressed me more than the collection itself- the precise, angular gray duchesse satin and nylon coats, jackets, vests, and Bermudas that had been scissored off to leave raw edges; the chunks of crystal dripping from shoes or worn as a chain mail over brief shorts... On the matter of crystals- the open-work crystal dresses that closed the show were exquisite, adding a very interesting silhouette to outer-wear; I simply cannot wait to see how these pieces will be styled and worn in ad campaigns, editorials and by fashion's elite.
On the matter of elite- Prada has admitted to being somewhat intrigued by undergarments and such, and indeed, in her last few collections (most notably Resort 2010), the intrigue seems to have blossomed into a fixation. I'm not sure if the panties are quite wearable (actually, they're not) but they do make a good representation for the modern classicism, Prada likes to explore through her work.
All-in-all, for the mismatch of historical glamour and clothes that seemed both ordinary and unfinished were a puzzle, it was an oblique collection. It looked like the designer, who has been showing grown-up clothes of late, wanted to capture an elusive moment of youth. And in that essence, she may have succeded handsomely.
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