"If last season was a trip back in time to the eighties, this was a trip to the theater, the ballet, the opera, " Marc Jacobs opined, minutes before his show in New York yesterday evening.
The collection started with a shrunken belted raincoat over a ruff-collared blouse. But soon that little frill exploded into swirls of giant, lettuce-edged flounces, swirling and swathing the body as skirts, bustiers, dresses and pantaloons. What wasn't ruffled was brocaded; what wasn't brocaded was ruched, shirred, sequined or cut into harlequin points. There were bras over shirts over briefs, shorts suits over sheer harem pants, ruffled tubes over billowing skirts, sweater dresses, corsets, panties... The order of the day was obviously glorious excess, and if it all left to the imagination spring's complete retail range well, Jacobs isn't interested in assembling the fashion masses twice annually for a merch session. "It's not just about selling clothes," he said the day before the show. "It's about giving people things to dream of and romanticize about." And so he did.
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