Wednesday, September 16, 2009
3.1 Phillip Lim 2010 Spring/Summer Collection
A fiery red runway with a jagged-mirror backdrop laid the groundwork for the 3.1 Phillip Lim show this afternoon. Three of the first four looks were striking in “lipstick red,” beginning with a double-breasted suit and a belted short suit. A red veneer trench paired with chic, and comfortable looking, low-heeled red boots, continued the scarlet trend. There were many jackets, including a black “two-tone kangaroo leather moto-jacket,” shimmery tuxedo jackets which will be a hit with both the uptown and downtown gals, as well as some luxe camel-colored ones.
Lim’s show, influenced by two art shows the designer has recently seen- the Guy Bourdin exhibition in London, curated by the Wapping Project, and “Picasso: Mosqueteros” at New York’s Gagosian Gallery- included a healthy dose of feminine dresses, the Grecian-inspired kind that has a deep V up top that gives way to heavy pleating from the waist down. He even added some appliqué to the bodices. The collection also included oversized cropped dress shirts paired with shorts and some heavily-sequined numbers.
“I don’t want people to walk around wearing art,” said the designer, whose collections never stray from commercially savvy terrain. Here, the Cubist touch came in spliced party frocks- tiered and pleated lace and organza hybrids- while Picasso’s more primitive inclinations were reflected in pretty croc-embroidered tops and dresses.