Sunday, September 20, 2009
Phi 2010 Spring/Summer Collection
Designer Andreas Melbostad sent uniforms and lingerie, his two evergreen interests, down the runway, and did he declare war on the corset? He moved elastic straps from shoulder to slash-exposed thigh; delicate and decorative smocking became a textured carapace on a side-laced dress; and a brassiere became a plate of armor. All of this was executed in a stark palette of black and white, with lots of surface interest created by the choice of materials, including linen and suede. "I wanted to take tactile and natural fibers," the modest Norwegian said, "and put them into an urban context." That he did.