Fall 2012: Helmut Lang

Looking at the Fall 2012 Helmut Lang collection, it's somewhat astounding that it is only the second season for which Nicole and Michael Colovos are at the helm. There's so much confidence here, it seems like the work of seasoned designers.
It was an experiment that wasn’t too dangerous- sharply cut black blazers, lots of leather and thigh-high wedge boots; an edgy display of urban chic. These guys are onto something, here...

Fall 2012: Jason Wu

With lots of Chinese influences, the Fall 2012 collection from Jason Wu was not only stately and well-tailored, but sober (by his standards) and quite impressive. "Military" seems an early trend for Fall, and Wu played that up with sharp jackets and poncho-like coats.
Gone were the ruffly young-socialite dresses; in its play we had grown-up sophistication, and a hell of a lot of studded accessories.

Fall 2012: Peter Som

Starting with all white pieces, the Fall 2012 collection from Peter Som shown during New York Fashion Week this morning was perfect. It was full of opposites, the most obvious being masculine and feminine, and while it had the usual Som-esque frills and frippery, it was a very chic and sober collection, one that , at times, recalled Balenciaga-like shapes.

3.1 Phillip Lim Spring 2012

With interesting shapes, and a loose silhouette, the colourful collection from 3.1 Phillip Lim for Spring 2012 was well-tailored and light. 

Sportswear seemed to be a point of reference; but with some gorgeous silk pants, (and nifty use of nylon) as Lim described backstage, it was all about "sophisticated youth." With loose panels, there was an unfinished edge through-out, but it was still all very chic.

Marc Jacobs Spring 2012

I didn't see the runway presentation live stream for Marc Jacobs' Spring collection, but I heard it was fantastic. But really, if you're even familiar with the Jacobs name, you know he's every bit the showman. However, I felt more than a pang of disappointment having viewed the pieces in the collection; there was hardly much to wear in real life. Sure, Jacobs is a couturier at heart but he's always had a knack of sifting through complex and grandiose ideas, coming up with stand-out, iconic pieces. Not so much this time around.
With some fringe, some gingham, some denim, the silhouette was mainly 1920's-esque replete with flapper dresses. But not only did the clothes look dull for Spring, but they fell flat given the name attached to them. Maybe he's focusing on his supposed negotiations to take over at Dior, but whatever the cause, consider this collection a major disappointment.