Well, I have to say I was pretty impressed with this season's collections from New York right through to Paris, so to say it was hard coming up with this list, is pretty much an understatement. I loved so many collections, (Elie Saab, Emmanuel Ungaro, Miu Miu, Chanel, to name a few) alas, there can only be ten. So here goes; my ten fave collections for Fall 2010 RTW:
10. Haider Ackermann
Having produced my fave collection last season, I surely wasn't disappointed this go round. Sure, the mood was a little darker this time, but the aesthetic was generally the same- draping juxtaposed with new shapes, all seen through the prism of sexual tension.
9. Celine
To talk about the best that fashion has to offer today and not mention Phoebe Philo's work with the house of Celine is kinda not getting it. Her designs are cutting edge, completely modern (with just a slight whiff of vintage) and altogether very sharp and well-tailored. This collection was another excellent one. Oh, and those coats? Beautiful!
8. Alexander McQueen
I really hope they aren't planning to replace head of design Sarah Burton at McQueen any time soon, because if there were any doubts as to whether she can carry on the original designer's name, there should be none by now. Burton's aesthetic isn't as dark at McQueen's was, at his best, but you know what? It doesn't need to be- she approaches each subsequent collection with such reverence and purity, it's almost easy to imagine McQueen sketched these designs himself.
7. Emilio Pucci
Well, what can I say? Peter Dundas knows what celebrities want. And what they want is glamour and hot, hot sex. The colour palette this season was gorgeous, but it was the corseted figure and haute-edge that made this collection stand out for me.
6. Prada
It was a collection, for me, that was very 60's London-esque; but knowing how Miuccia Prada's brain works, I can assure you that the inspiration didn't stop there. So there was 20's-style coats, snakeskin, coat dresses and those really weird scale-like sequins. Some critics didn't like it, but who cares? This is Prada; bad press won't hurt her one bit.
5. Givenchy
So while rumours are still swirling as to whether Riccardo Tisci will be placed at the head of Dior now that Galliano has been sacked, the Fall collection for Givenchy couldn't have come at a better time. It's funny to note how critics and fashion people have come around to Tisci in recent years, considering his aesthetic has been one that they really didn't get at first. Sure, he's come a long way in terms of editing, but the fact remains that he constructs one-of-a-kind, wearable, beautiful clothes and accessories. Continuing with the theme of the Fall menswear collection, the show was more of an event, (with Kanye West, Florence Welch and Liv Tyler in the front row) evidence of how much impact Tisci has as a designer.
4. Marc Jacobs
Watching this collection via live stream, I was like Ooooooh! Aaaaaaaah! with each new look that came out. There were Dalmatian spots, latex, lace, fur; indeed, it was a wonderful juxtaposition of textures. The collection, touted to be influenced by sex shops and dominatrices, was soundtracked to Marilyn Manson's "The Beautiful People," and beautiful it was.
3. Dries Van Noten
Where do I even begin with this collection? Well...
There’s a sentiment about his collections I particularly appreciate. His vision of prints, mixed media, and easy draping is extremely likable for how effortlessly these fun looks can fit into everyday life. His girl comes across lithe, well put-together, and somewhat quirky. The mixing of fabrics is unique, the prints are delightfully fun, and the length and structure, for this collection, created a very relaxed silhouette. Better yet, this entire show felt effortless; the clothes are beautifully cut while the fabrics give the impression of richly nuanced luxury. What's mostly impressive though about his collections, and indeed this one, is how highly pragmatic Van Noten’s designs are; these are smart clothes for the smart woman made by a smart man.
2. Proenza Schouler
I'm surprised by how high this collection is on my list, but what can I say? It was excellent. Designers, baby-faced Jack and Lazaro are making me eat my words with each new collection, but when they're this good, that's fine. Every thing was beautiful and playful, and the pixelated prints were right on. More known for their accessories (shoes, bags) than their clothes, it's amazing how unlike their other collections, I was impressed by every piece that came out.
1. Fendi
Here's an interesting tidbit- I didn't like this collection the first time I viewed it. Weird? I know. But the more I viewed it, the more I fell in love with it.
The collection best exemplifies Lagerfeld’s versatility and ability to make more than one line and to make them wearable and perfect, eclipsing even his work with Chanel. Teaming up with Fendi partner Silvia Venturini Fendi to create a wearable and wonderful collection, Lagerfeld presented colourful coats, all completely luxurious. The collection blended mink, chinchilla, sable and fox, creating some truly sumptuous and wonderful outerwear. Outside of the fur-work, there was plenty to love, too: the coloured stockings, the goggles, the bags and shoes- it was all a very quirky collection with so many stand-out, well-tailored pieces. Absolutely amazing!
