Saturday, February 27, 2010

Prada Fall/Winter 2010 RTW

Confession: I didn't like the Prada fall collection. But, really, that's fine. I've had to sift through several of her collections before I actually came to a decision as to my thought of it.
Having done that, my question is- what was she trying to do or say through the presentation of these clothes? We all know nothing is as what it seems for Muiccia. Some say she's shifted the paradigm for what is considered sexy in fashion. But in all honesty, she's been doing that, pioneering her ugly-chic look ever since the 90's.

Others have opined she's changed the tone of this fall season, presenting clothes that are aren't overtly sexy or commercial, but still very wearable and practical. To be honest, that is true; like Marc Jacobs a few days before her in New York, she's looked to another era for inspiration, one more clothed.

What it seems, to me at least, is that Prada just watched some episodes of Mad Men and voila- inspiration! She's confessed to having never seen the show, but looking at these clothes makes you go, hmmmm...

Not that that is a bad thing- that show seems to be pretty good, with all the awards its been getting. (I too have never seen it.) The important thing is that Prada kept her source in mind, but fused it with the usual elements we've come to expect from her line- frump, and ugly. And no, that isn't a bad thing, either.

Models' hair was pulled-back into 50's bouffant, while the silhouette was angular with skirts cut at an angle at the hip. The broken checks recalled photos of happy wives on cruises in the Caribbean or Mediterranean in an era before the hippie revolution.
The designer also dreamed up a whole new type of sock, a knitted knee sock with a ribbon in grosgrain or chiffon sewn down the shin, which i'm almost sure will spark a hot new trend.

As for sex appeal — this collection had plenty. But in Prada’s world, it’s not about baring all, but covering it up- the first look was a plain black wool dress with long sleeves, high-cut neck and knee-length, A-line skirt ruffled at the hem. It was conservative, almost funereal, except  for the tacky, exaggerated darts at the bust. Some shapes were cast through a seemingly Sixties reference point, such as little jackets, with doubled-up collars, one knit, one fur, and matching skirts cut from thick black and camel ciré, that had the effect of high-gloss vinyl.
Ms. Prada loves to examine our sentimentality about women and beauty, and in some respects this was her most assertive anti-fashion statement in awhile. Something about these clothes felt so outside current fashion and obsessions as to be but a distant squeal from a 60s fondue party. Admittedly, some of the outfits almost dared you to call them ugly, but it's Prada, hun. What did you expect?

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