Thursday, February 25, 2010
Paris Fall/Winter 2010 Menswear
The Raf Simons collection was balanced out with creative, typical Raf-like elements: the techno fabrics, the bold geometric shapes and strong lines, the play with silhouette and proportion. It all felt very crisp and modern.
Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver showed an innovative collection, cut very stylishly in luxurious fabrics, with unusual silhouettes, and unexpected details, like thick suede straps fastened over suit jackets.
YVES SAINT LAURENT
YSL was very stylish and understated , where Stefano Pilati continues to push a more generously cut, less ‘skinny boy’ silhouette.
Balenciaga should look into a full mens line. The styling for these four looks was spot on, I wanna see more!
Riccardo Tisci continues to imbue his clothes with elements of religion and sportwear, and I couldn't be happier. He continued his male leggings trend, but are those skirts, too? Whoa!
The most interesting collection of the season. There were loads of really interesting cuts and silhouettes, a lot of it was quite androgynous (but in a very focused way that avoided all the usual clichés)… I think I like it so much because it’s menswear which is experimental without looking ridiculous, which is always something of a rarity. There were some elements, like the snakeskin boots and liberal application of fur, which might be a bit much for some (I ABSOLUTELY LOVED), but overall this collection was really very stylish.
Classics, with idiosyncratic twists, like suit jackets with unexpected leather patches, or beautifully designed sports coats with contrasting patterns, made for a strong collection for Wantanabe. Nearly all of the pieces look as if they could make painless transitions into lots of men’s wardrobes too, which is a good thing (and more than can be said for most men’s collections). Loved the shoes, too.
A particularly strong take on her typical dark, draped style, everything worked well together and it was generally very visually appealing. I’d love to be left in a room with this entire collection indefinitely!
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER
Finally, a Gaultier collection I can get excited about! The boxing theme combined two of his greatest talents, namely killer tailoring, and putting on a great show.
What does one expect from Hermès but luxury? And with leather jackets, fabulously cut trenches, and gorgeous bags, that's exactly what we got from their fall collection.
Comme des GarçonsInteresting elements as usual at Comme des Garçons- recurring three piece suit with the third piece that looked like a semi-removed bullet-proof vest; the neon-capped shoes; the giant shorts over trousers (pants); the double trousers, with the outer pair split at the crotch...
BORIS BIDJAN SABERI
Interesting cuts and silhouettes aside, Saberi took too many cues from Rick Owens resulting in an ugly, yet promising collection.
"Every straight man's nightmare" best sums up Galliano's anti-minimalist collection replete with fake tans.
WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK
"Alice in Wonderland" meets Warhol is how I would describe Beirendock's very fun fall collection. The giant headphone hats were designed by Stephen Jones (I WANT!!) and the collection also featured a few womens pieces, too.
J's collection was a fresh, very stylish and well executed riff on fashion-goth. In fact, it probably wasn't all that goth anyway. (Smart pinstripe suits and double jackets?) Will this dark, draped, quite deconstructed style be the next thing that trickles down into the mainstream of menswear? Only time will tell, but for now, i'd love to get my hands on one of those jackets!
In a very strong season for menswear, Kris Van Assche designs seemed pretty tame. Still, it was very strong on tailoring. I actually thought it was very well cut, with quite voluminous cuts and draping, while cleverly still feeling ‘slim’ at the same time. It’s clear that Dior Homme under Kris Van Assche is never going to be a ‘directional,’ trend-setting brand as the house was under Hedi Slimane, but this collection was strong – and much, much better than some of the recent KVA collections for the house.
Saying Alexander McQueen is at his best when he is pushing boundaries is kind of like saying ice cream tastes best on a hot day; it’s a pretty obvious statement. Despite having an unusually understated range of colors and cuts, McQueen got McCrazy with the patterns used to make the suits, shirts and ties in his latest menswear offering.