Donna Karan Fall/Winter 2010 RTW

Despite a few forays into vibrant color, Karan called her Fall collection “Forever Black." She worked the romantic end of her range in sculptural, rounded shapes, whether in a dress with a stretch torso and tiered skirt, another with a gently belled skirt, or the flourish of ample collars, which skewed either poetic or Pierrot.

Karan’s coats were standouts, such as a zip-up hourglass tweed, and a remarkable number in shearling lace. Throughout, Karan played with textures, layering matte against shine, or open knits over sleek wool stretch.

There were no Wall Street suits but there were plenty of lush dark jersey dresses worn under cocoon coats: jackets and coats that literally envelope the torso like a comfy cocoon. It’s an elegant look, and one that fits most any body type, which means it’s wearable, not over-designed.