Wednesday, October 7, 2009
Louis Vuitton 2010 Spring/Summer Collection
“I think people love to show off,” Jacobs said hours before his collection for the house of Louis Vuitton Wednesday afternoon.
“No one I know is living such a private existence that they don’t want people to see that they’re carrying the newest bag or wearing the newest clothes. Even if they don’t want to admit it, there’s a kind of joy people get from the recognition.” With that in mind, Jacobs piled everything on- fanciful shoes, twills, jacquards, prints, fishnet, glitz, leather, canvas, denim, tassles, fur all monogrammed, bleached, over-dyed, ombréd and worked into one grand, overstatement.
Set against a futuristic cityscape, the show featured a gentle army of models, all in identical over-sized Afro wigs finished with cutesy satin bows affixed just so, and wearing tiny tweeds, layered chiffons, battered denim, prints from gingham to ikat, rich embroideries and more - often all in one outfit.
Once again, there was very little that fell below mid thigh - legs will be on display for all to see six months from now- but charming innocence as opposed to overt sexuality was the dominant mood. Quintessential Americana was seamlessly mixed with Parisian hauteur as puffy pants were layered over cycling shorts covered in the type of intricate embroidery that is usually the preserve of the couture atelier over and above sportswear. Flirtatious, French baby doll dresses, similarly, were worn over shrunken proudly preppy shirts buttoned up to the throat that were more Brady Bunch than femme fatale.
Aside from bags, the most interesting aspect of the show was probably foot-wear- in place of the ultra-high strappy sandals that have dominated fashion (and Louis Vuitton) for so long came clogs, moccassins and loafers, all seeming to wear their own moustache, all with a spherical heel no more than around two inches high
As far as influence was concerned, the show melded athletic, military, street, hippie, Eighties, Davy Crockett into one Bohemian hodgepodge that worked more often than it didn't.