There's no doubt that Riccardo Tisci has moved up to the elite group of designers who matter most in Paris. His collections attract immense press, rock-stars and are almost always universally applauded. While that is remarkable, what I find more impressive is his thought process. Incorporating elements of religion, bondage and Eastern culture into his work, his pieces have a unique couture-like quality to them.
This time around, he sent out a fusion of Arabic influences, goddesslike draping, and, according to the program notes, the results of his new research into sixties Roman couture. In true Tisci style, each piece had an intensiy of proportion and exquisite detailing- the graphic jackets; tiny kilts; attenuated drop-crotch harem pants; and gorgeous draped, wrapped, and swathed tulle dresses.
It was all gorgeously crafted, and Tisci managed to make familiar silhouettes, baby dolls and trapeze tops worn over skinny or drop-crotch pants, feel new. Most importantly, he excised his usual bondage theme, letting chic shine rather brightly.
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