Sunday, October 4, 2009
Viktor&Rolf 2010 Spring/Summer Collection
In what was one of the least marketable collections this fashion season, the house of Viktor&Rolf decided to slay clothes for their 2010 Spring/Summer collection: perfect Barbie princess gowns in tulle were carved like topiary into much more interesting shapes, with the leftover tufts used to adorn cocktail dresses and skirt suits. The full, ankle-length skirt of a would-be prom queen gown was riddled with Swiss cheese holes that cut clear through the bubble-gum pink tulle. "There's a certain aggression to it, to the act of cutting, and we like that because that way it becomes contemporary," the look-alike pair said minutes before their show.
Another scarlet gown was precision sliced mid-thigh, leaving the top half of the model in a mini ballet tutu and revealing her legs clad in a black body stocking. But by some technical wizardry the skirts were reinstated above the knee to the floor, although how they were held in place was a mystery.
The myriad layers of another dress whooshed up one side to above the model's head, leaving her nearly nude on the other. Sometimes the wearer was entirely lost, so enveloped in frothy tulle that from the back she looked like a giant sponge with spindly legs.
Surpassing even their own flights of fancy, the collection was a veritable tour de force in tulle, layering and compressed it so densely that it formed almost solid blocks, which they proceeded to sculpt around the body. Meanwhile, the beautifully adorned bags and shoes seemed to deserve a show of their own. Ready-to-wear? Not so much. Works of art? Definitely.