Phoebe Philo's return to the runway was probably the most anticipated "event" this fashion season. Now married, in her mid-thirties and having moved on from the house of Chloé, the designer displayed a focus and directness in her 2010 spring/summer collection for Celine, her first in four years.
The precise lines and simple equations of luxuriously sporty elements at Celine read as a brisk mission to make classy utilitarianism sexy; classics with that proverbial twist, which, in this case, was more like a definitive line. Precision was key in tailored pieces, such as bib-front shirts with a starched-paper quality, trenches, tailored skirts and wide-leg trousers with acute creases. Many looks featured leather molded into boxy Ts, tops cut under the bust and shift dresses. Some were matelassé; all had a streamlined, scuba quality.
Such severity done in a neutral palette of black, white, camel and flesh tones was minimal, plain, even, but never bland. Creamy jabot blouses worn with jet leather radiated chic, while a range of second-skin nudes had pared-down sex appeal.
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