Monday, February 21, 2011
Burberry Prorsum Fall/Winter 2011
Maybe I have come to expect entirely too much from designer Christopher Bailey, but I did not like this collection. Yes, I got it- it was 60's era London; as colourful as it was, a lot of the collection looked very mod. But while I particularly didn't mind the colours, I hated the proportions; to my eyes, they were ill-fitting and just plain odd.
As usual, Bailey riffed on the brand’s signature trench: some fashioned from white silk jacquard made to look and feel like knits, others came in tweed and had a Sherlock Holmes feel, but then when Bailey tried to add a touch of luxe via fur on the shoulders and collars, I cringed.
I'm all for a designer trying new things and indeed, Bailey did by adding plenty of new proportions- funnel-neck lumberjack check, quilted cape styles with flaring kimono sleeves, but too many of these silhouettes were unwieldy, and at times too retro, too referenced; and while outerwear was the focus, there really was nothing outside of that to be impressed by.
Naturally, I highlighted the looks I thought worked, which were too far and in between in a 50-odd piece collection. Consider me disappointed.