Burberry Prorsum Fall/Winter 2011

Maybe I have come to expect entirely too much from designer Christopher Bailey, but I did not like this collection. Yes, I got it- it was 60's era London; as colourful as it was, a lot of the collection looked very mod. But while I particularly didn't mind the colours, I hated the proportions; to my eyes, they were ill-fitting and just plain odd.
As usual, Bailey riffed on the brand’s signature trench: some fashioned from white silk jacquard made to look and feel like knits, others came in tweed and had a Sherlock Holmes feel, but then when Bailey tried to add a touch of luxe via fur on the shoulders and collars, I cringed.
I'm all for a designer trying new things and indeed, Bailey did by adding plenty of new proportions- funnel-neck lumberjack check, quilted cape styles with flaring kimono sleeves, but too many of these silhouettes were unwieldy, and at times too retro, too referenced; and while outerwear was the focus, there really was nothing outside of that to be impressed by.
Naturally, I highlighted the looks I thought worked, which were too far and in between in a 50-odd piece collection. Consider me disappointed.

Jonathan Saunders Fall/Winter 2011

So apparently no one told Jonathan Saunders that he was designing for Fall, as mostly all of his pieces were bright, light and cheery. Not to mention colourful.
primary colours, presenting a collection of sleek, featherlight dresses in jewel tones of rich red, green and blue. Models with hair pulled back in clean, simple ponytails wore high-collared silk satin blouses and below-the-knee, multi-layered, often multi-colured sheath dresses. Although high slits showed the occasional flash of thigh, the overall style was conservative and very demure. Chunky platform shoe-boots in metallic and velvet kept the look modern, balancing the lightness of the silk garments.
Burgundy was a key colour, with many blouses, blazers and dresses also made with colourful, intricate art nouveau-inspired silk screen prints- a signature technique of Saunders.
“I was looking at something that felt kind of old fashion and seductive and kind of decadent, slightly. Something I wouldn’t look at normally for references,” Saunders said. “You know, I like graphic, minimal, modern things, and I just made myself look at it in a different way.”

Richard Nicoll Fall/Winter 2011

"Movement and freedom and comfort..." According to designer Richard Nicoll, that was the theme of his Fall 2011 collection, with the moth, both in its cocoon and on the wing, being the motif. The idea of a creature escaping from its chrysalis prison, as well as moth wings inspired a lustrous surface for the clothes with some nifty Poiret-like silhouettes.
I'm not sure if it all worked well enough, but I at least was impressed by more than a few of the coats and jackets.

Christopher Kane Fall/Winter 2011

For Fall/Winter, grandma is Kane’s heroine with her crochet patchwork blanket, suddenly becoming cool. Kane imprinted its knit design on to black leather t-shirts and pencil skirts, and using it on wrap skirts and cardigans. 
A series of simple, beautifully tailored black dresses, with low cuts and thigh-high splits, added to the sex appeal- as did sheer sequined numbers. Necklines and pockets were trimmed with wavy, liquid-filled plastic reminiscent of a lava lamp (“When it heats up, it bubbles,” the designer said). The combination proved to be a sort of space age LBD.
“People always associate it with grannies,” Mr. Kane said on crochet backstage at the show. “But I think it is so sexy because it hugs the body and shows some skin.”

Giles Spring/Summer 2011

For Giles Deacon, bad taste is good and the highest compliment I can think of to pay this collection is that it was in exquisitely bad taste.

With Agyness Deyn opening and supermodel legend Veruschka closing, the show was filled with cartoonish prints, pop-arty colours, over-sized 80's-esque sneakers and his usual zany eyewear.

Consider this the first Giles collection I love!

Burberry Prorsum Fall/Winter 2010 RTW

Designed by Yorkshireman Christopher Bailey, Burberry Prorsum's 53-piece Fall collection was a “salute to the services”, referencing Burberry’s long involvement with the military.

The “Burberry Cadet Girls” formed a military parade, in updated sheepskin flying jackets, bristling with buckles and zips, officer’s mess jackets, khaki trouser suits, trench-coats, and naval reefer jackets.

 

The collection was sexed-up with skin-tight lace and satin body-conscious dresses, worn over thigh-high leather and some gorgeous snakeskin boots.
More tailored shapes came in the form of officer-style greatcoats, pea coats and trenches in khaki and Windsor blue. Gold buttons and epaulettes provided extra military touches.

For the more rock'n'roll civilian, there were shaggy white takes on the Afghan coat, ruched silk or velvet dresses and skirts in plum and chartreuse and lace shirts.

 

The show was packed with celebs- Kate Hudson, Twilight star Kristen Stewart, Mary-Kate Olsen, Claire Danes, even Anna Wintour herself was there.