Haider Ackermann

Marrying the force of Japanese warrior robes with the aura of high Parisian chic, Haider Ackermann deconstructed biker leathers and large kimono jackets, worn off the shoulder, collapsed together, worn with long pleated evening skirts that, for all their prettiness, conjured up grand ceremonial pieces. Striped silk robes and pajama pants oozed old-school chic, as did black kimono-cum-tuxedo jackets that gathered into sculpted folds or sashes at the back, while slouchy jumpsuits were a cool take on the tuxedo.

Layered up and bound in obi belts, Ackermann’s ensembles, if overcomplicated at times, proved a soigné moment of commanding and arresting beauty. The show opened with the leather jackets, often edged in a spiral of metallic zippers. With them came elegantly floor-sweeping pleated skirts- the hit of this season- that segued into dresses drawn into a graceful bow at the back. The sophistication of these dresses, balanced on the curves of the body but so far from obvious red-carpet styles, were the revelation of the show.

Ackermann clearly has the potential to become a major league designer and house hold name, a talent who could direct his own house and a famed global label. Whether or not he ever does so remains the question. He is knocking on the door or greatness, one the fashion jury expects to open, though it has not quite just yet.

Proenza Schouler Spring/Summer 2011

We wanted it to be a little more polished," designer Jack McCollough said in a backstage before the Proenza Schouler presentation in New York recently. Co-designer Lazaro Hernandez jumped in saying "So we took all these feminine codes—the embroideries, the flowers—and mixed them up in our own way. We wanted to do something without any obvious references."

With bold, oversize, arts-and-crafts-y necklaces; and slipdresses flounced with ruffles and worn over retro bras and briefs, 'feminine' it was, resulting in the first Proenza Schouler collection I liked from start to finish.

Gucci Spring/Summer 2011

Chic and flashy, tasteful and every bit sumptuous, the tassel- and fringe-heavy collection from Frida Giannini for the house of Gucci hit all the very right notes.

I loved the bronzed belts that cinched the looks for the opening pieces, as well as the line straddled between tasteful and brash.

Certainly meeting the expectation of the Gucci customer, Giannini called the collection “Sophisticated Seduction", drawing references as diverse as the photographs of Guy Bourdin and David Bailey, YSL, and the house’s equestrian heritage. 

Giles Spring/Summer 2011

For Giles Deacon, bad taste is good and the highest compliment I can think of to pay this collection is that it was in exquisitely bad taste.

With Agyness Deyn opening and supermodel legend Veruschka closing, the show was filled with cartoonish prints, pop-arty colours, over-sized 80's-esque sneakers and his usual zany eyewear.

Consider this the first Giles collection I love!

Rodarte Spring/Summer 2011

Inspired by their native Northern California and its redwood forests, the Mulleavy sisters whipped up some wearable pieces this time around for the often avant-garde house of Rodarte.

From the very start, there was something decidedly different about this go-around. Maybe it was the lack of darkness, maybe it was the simple runway presentation... Whatever it was, one thing was for certain- the sisters didn't abandon their affinity to experiment with fabric treatment.

The designers hipped up bold wood-panel prints and leaf-like embroideries on sportswear, silk skirts and dresses. Eventually, the nature theme gave way to porcelain patterns. Shapes remained the same- 70's-style pants, layered skirts, button-downs and draped peplums. “

Marchesa Spring/Summer 2011

Exquisitely wrought, orientalist-inspired pieces dominated Marchesa's Spring 2011 collection.

With heavily bejeweled necklines, hand-painted florals on rolling sculptural drapes, and grand obilike loops, floor-length gowns oozed glamour with sweeping curves, exaggerated drapes and folds.

You know the saying "the devil is in the details"? Well, for Marchesa, the drama is in the details.