Haider Ackermann

Marrying the force of Japanese warrior robes with the aura of high Parisian chic, Haider Ackermann deconstructed biker leathers and large kimono jackets, worn off the shoulder, collapsed together, worn with long pleated evening skirts that, for all their prettiness, conjured up grand ceremonial pieces. Striped silk robes and pajama pants oozed old-school chic, as did black kimono-cum-tuxedo jackets that gathered into sculpted folds or sashes at the back, while slouchy jumpsuits were a cool take on the tuxedo.

Layered up and bound in obi belts, Ackermann’s ensembles, if overcomplicated at times, proved a soigné moment of commanding and arresting beauty. The show opened with the leather jackets, often edged in a spiral of metallic zippers. With them came elegantly floor-sweeping pleated skirts- the hit of this season- that segued into dresses drawn into a graceful bow at the back. The sophistication of these dresses, balanced on the curves of the body but so far from obvious red-carpet styles, were the revelation of the show.

Ackermann clearly has the potential to become a major league designer and house hold name, a talent who could direct his own house and a famed global label. Whether or not he ever does so remains the question. He is knocking on the door or greatness, one the fashion jury expects to open, though it has not quite just yet.