Dries Van Noten Spring/Summer 2011

For Dries Van Noten, “a handsome woman” was his stated spring muse, one he sees as strong, dignified and casually glamorous. And  very real. “These are simple clothes,” he said in a pre-show interview, “really clothes to wear. Not a big extravagant statement.” Anyone attuned to Van Noten knows this is hardly anything new for the designer.

But don't be fooled, this was no peasant fest, but a glorious reimagining of everyday sportswear characterized by dramatic oversize proportions, made feminine by an intricately executed pale palette and floral prints pilfered from Chinese porcelains, and glam by plenty of high-shine iridescence.

Referencing Chinese ceramics and art, Van Noten took bleach to some fabrics, and, to others, added prints inspired by the subtle color gradations of Belgian artist Jef Verheyen. While other designers are going for vibrant color clashes this season, Van Noten kept his soft but no less offbeat; for instance, a blue coat over a peach shirt and jeans in a wash from green to peach. Though his primary embellishment was iridescent in silvery fabrics and leather accessories, Van Noten gave in to his love of elaborate embroideries for a masterfully crafted coat, tossed casually over a sheer shirt and wide pants.