Plaids and Stripes

Best of Pre-Fall: Michael Kors

2012-01-09T13:56:00.000-05:00

There wasn't a unifying element to Michael Kors' Pre-Fall collection other than the whole home on the range/western motif, but even as camp as that theme can be, these were some pretty well-tailored clothes. Something tells me this wasn't geared towards the trendy 20-25 year old crowd, but the older woman who likes to make a statement.

Best of Pre-Fall 2012: Lanvin

2012-01-09T13:41:00.000-05:00

Alber Elbaz said it best when he said the Pre-Fall Lanvin collection would be all about new fabrics and new volumes... It was a very luxe collection, very fresh-looking too. But did we really expect anything else?

Best of Pre-Fall 2012: Alexander Wang

2012-01-09T13:26:00.000-05:00

What do you get when you add Japanese schoolgirl elements to menswear tailoring? Alexander Wang's very winning, very minimalistic Pre-Fall collection. Colours were monochromatic, and there were some very interesting fabric elements, (transparent mesh) but it wasn't too far off from the sporty chic we expect from Wang. And chic it was.

Best of Pre-Fall 2012: Givenchy

2012-01-09T13:14:00.000-05:00

Not my fave Givenchy collection, but I appreciated its sobriety. The boots are a no, at least for me, but I like how the whole thing referenced past Givenchy collections, and fabric choice through-out was very nice. Is Tisci running out of ideas? I highly doubt it, but we're just gonna have to wait for the Fall season to see...

Kanye West Spring 2012

2011-10-01T23:33:00.003-05:00

As one of the leading figures in popular music, Kanye West is a cultured man. Rubbing shoulders with Marc Jacobs, rapping about Pheobe Philo, sitting front and centre at Givenchy and having night out's with Carine Roitfeld, it was more than inevitable that he would fully immerse himself in the world of fashion. No, he hasn't retired as a rapper, but he now adds the title of "designer" to his name.
Shrouded in mystery, West debuted his very first collection during Paris fashion week, and if the crowd there was anything to go by, (Azzedine Alaïa, Joseph Altuzarra, Alexander Wang, Dean and Dan Caten and Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, Anna Wintour...) this was a major show. So let's get to the clothes- were they any good? My answer is yes.
Naturally, I could sense more than a few inspirations- Gareth Pugh, (in the draping and layering) Céline, (in angular crispness) Alexander Wang, (in the sportiness) BCBG Max Azria, (in the slashed body-con) Balmain (in the rocker chic)- but that's kind of what you would expect from someone who's as much of a follower of fashion as West. I did have an issue with some of the fabric choices, (fur especially) but I highly doubt this was a collection intended for non-celebs. Critics have noted that the collection suffered from ill-fitting, and one hopes this will be cleared up before it hits retail, but even with mixed reviews from (snooty) fashion critics, I admit this was a promising collection.

Balenciaga Spring 2012

2011-09-30T22:30:00.001-05:00

So with a reported five or so benches collapsing, the drama and suspense began at Balenciaga's Spring 2012 runway show before the clothes had even come out. When they did however, in true Balenciaga-style, they were something to talk about.
Designer Ghesquière certainly pushed the silhouette with the last five or so dresses in the collection, and while I never got those, the pieces that came before were impressive. Quotidian color-blocked jackets were a highlight, their shoulders exaggerated and masculine. Everything here came off like haute couture, and really, Ghesquière would have it no other way.

Hussein Chalayan Spring 2012

2011-09-30T22:09:00.001-05:00

Clean and minimalistic, the collection from Hussein Chalayan utilised a free, loose silhouette, with an emphasis on masculine, boxy jackets.
The collection started in monochrome before bursting into soft yellows and erstwhile prints, before shifting back to all whites. It's a collection that was definitely more function than form, something we don't always get from the couture master.

Maison Martin Margiela Spring 2012

2011-09-30T21:51:00.002-05:00

Continuing the label's weirdness, the Spring 2012 collection from the house of Margiela was all about the deconstruction of clothes; really, nothing new to the label. But what was most definitely fresh about the collection was how wearable most all the pieces were. From the slip-dresses that opened the collection to the masculine coats through-out, this collection was surely aimed to impact retail. And I don't see why it shouldn't.

3.1 Phillip Lim Spring 2012

2011-09-21T16:21:00.000-05:00

With interesting shapes, and a loose silhouette, the colourful collection from 3.1 Phillip Lim for Spring 2012 was well-tailored and light.

Sportswear seemed to be a point of reference; but with some gorgeous silk pants, (and nifty use of nylon) as Lim described backstage, it was all about "sophisticated youth." With loose panels, there was an unfinished edge through-out, but it was still all very chic.

Marc Jacobs Spring 2012

2011-09-20T14:13:00.000-05:00

I didn't see the runway presentation live stream for Marc Jacobs' Spring collection, but I heard it was fantastic. But really, if you're even familiar with the Jacobs name, you know he's every bit the showman. However, I felt more than a pang of disappointment having viewed the pieces in the collection; there was hardly much to wear in real life. Sure, Jacobs is a couturier at heart but he's always had a knack of sifting through complex and grandiose ideas, coming up with stand-out, iconic pieces. Not so much this time around.
With some fringe, some gingham, some denim, the silhouette was mainly 1920's-esque replete with flapper dresses. But not only did the clothes look dull for Spring, but they fell flat given the name attached to them. Maybe he's focusing on his supposed negotiations to take over at Dior, but whatever the cause, consider this collection a major disappointment.

J. Mendel Spring 2012

2011-09-20T13:50:00.000-05:00

With a free-flowing sihouette, the collection from J. Mendel was all about pleating. It was all well-tailored, but unfortunately a bit dull at times. Minimalism and colour-blocking were other motifs utilised, but one gets the sense that this collection could have been a whole lot better than it actually was.

Michael Kors Spring 2012

2011-09-20T13:31:00.000-05:00

Claiming his inspiration came from Africa this season, the collection from Michael Kors was absolutely perfect; I couldn't spot a bum piece through-out. Some pieces like the male sarong might prove a bit of a hard sell with the typical Kors man, but with some awesome accessories, the collection should prove a big hit at retail.
The prints were gorgeous and bright, evoking the shade of an African peninsula at times, at other times wild life. This was a collection that although playing into the whole cliché of Africa being romanticised by Westerners, (especially given the recent drought in Somalia) proves that the continent, as a point of reference can be powerful.

Donna Karan Spring 2012

2011-09-13T15:45:00.000-05:00

In what is sure to be one of the best moment during New York Fashion Week, Donna Karan's Spring 2012 hit all the right notes. Said to be inspired by Haiti, the collection was all about bold African tribalism, but with a sophisticated and very urban twist.
I loved how some of the pieces seemed to have been actually painted, rather than stitched, with broad brush strokes. Mask-faces even seemed to even pop out of some of the dresses. A very confident and bold collection from Karan, as always.

Carolina Herrera Spring 2012

2011-09-13T01:19:00.000-05:00

Art-deco meets luxury, that's how I describe the Carolina Herrera Spring 2012 collection. With geometric patterns, and a sometimes witty riff on constructivism, Herrera's clothes were pretty nifty and chic.

Altuzarra Spring 2012

2011-09-11T19:54:00.000-05:00

For Joseph Altuzarra, there were two points of reference in his Spring 2012 collection- sportswear and prints. And that was pretty much it. I didn't find too much to write about, although I did like most of the pieces. But really, it was a straight-forward collection, with straight-forward clothes- parachute straps accenting sleeveless dresses, track pants with racing stripes, etc.

Helmut Lang Spring 2012

2011-09-11T15:39:00.000-05:00

Free-flowing and textured are some of the words I could use to describe Helmut Lang's Spring 2012 collection, filled with angular hemlines and edgy necklines, in what was a return to the catwalk after a six year absence.
It was a simple, yet effective collection; pieces were feminine yet tough, and very street; the look, very minimal. Draping was also another motif that played a big (and beautiful) part in the collection, as was asymmetry and layering.

Alexander Wang Spring 2012

2011-09-11T13:56:00.001-05:00

Anyone operating in fashion knows that by itself, it is very divisive. "Good" and "bad" are always relative, and at the end of the day, everything boils down to a matter of personal taste, really. To be divisive in an already divisive field? Well. That's where things get really tricky. Enter designer Alexander Wang. His modus operandi has always been sportswear-as-actual-clothes. And while he's always been embraced by the hipster crowd and consumers simultaneously, critics haven't always been quick to sing his praises. (Who can forget Cathy Horyn's scathing review of his Spring 2011 collection?) But while i've always admitted that he at least gets accessories right, i've never thought his clothes were particularly stunning. Which brings me to his new collection for Spring 2012...
Continuing his athletic trend, this time around he references BMX and NASCAR, albeit all too literally. To be completely honest, beyond accessories, I really didn't see much in this collection that I actually liked. I wanted to like it, too, but after three views... Sure, there were a few cool pieces, but as is usual with Wang, the styling detracted from that. Maybe I need to see some of these pieces hung in a store. Speaking of which, he's opening a new flagship store in Beijing early next year, with seven more slated for Asia and Europe before year's end. More power to him.

Prabal Gurung Spring 2012

2011-09-10T17:47:00.001-05:00

For someone who's never really bought into the whole Gurung hype, even I have to admit that there was something strikingly beautiful about his Spring 2012 collection. Filled to the brim with sumptuous violet, the collection was notably futuristic, eye-catching and very, very chic. He didn't overwhelm us with colour choice, something most designers this week seem to have done, Gurung didn’t overwhelm us with his color choice; he was more interested in details, drawing from the work of Japanese photographer Nobuyoshi Araki.
The collection transformed from flirty into seductive reality before coming full circle with immaculate tulle silk gowns, all encompassing the empowering effect of romance.
I haven't bought into his hype just yet, but consider me definitely watching his next move.

Nicole Miller Spring 2012

2011-09-10T17:04:00.000-05:00

For Nicole Miller's Spring 2012 collection, the main motif seemed to have been colour. With the show opening with a pair of leggings in a wildly bright patchwork print, it was all about multi-stripe knits had a similar effect, and bright yellow, turquoise, and pink trim that Miller applied to a multitude of looks in black.
The athletic references were a bit literal at times- bike shorts, racerbacks, neoprene- but admittedly, they were well-done.

Doo.Ri Spring 2012

2011-09-09T20:50:00.000-05:00

Going through Doo.Ri's Spring 2012 collection, the pieces seem to be all over the place, at least colour-wise. Except for one unifying factor- draping. Almost all the pieces shown had some draped detail to them, most noticeably around the waist.
Starting with whites, the collection popped with pansy-purple and a delicious deep-orange.

Yigal Azrouël Spring 2012

2011-09-09T19:10:00.002-05:00

While it lacked innovation, the Spring 2012 collection from Yigal Azrouël was elegant, sleek and well-tailored. "This woman is strong. She knows what she wants- and she knows how to wear clothes well," Azrouël said in a pre-show interview this afternoon.
Sex appeal came from sheer fabrics and unexpected slits showing lots of leg, coupled with a long, loose silhouette. Using some colours, including a citrine yellow, the designer relied more on caramels and cognacs as base shades.

Rebecca Taylor Spring 2012

2011-09-09T18:45:00.000-05:00

With an emphasis on cut, color, texture and patterns, the Rebecca Taylor spring 2012 collection was influenced by a contemporary, fresh and ethereal muse. The result was a mostly patchworked looks in everything from day and night dresses to trousers.
Executed with Taylor’s sweet yet tomboyish hand, the standouts, were her flirty bohemian frocks, some injected with silver pinstripes and others in playful eyelet, as well as slouchy embellished sweaters and some cool leather bags. Focusing on soft neutrals, it wasn't always a moving collection, but it certainly had a girly yet tough edge.

United Bamboo Spring 2012

2011-09-09T17:37:00.000-05:00

80's-inspired and altogether very chic, the Spring 2012 collection from United Bamboo struck all the right notes. Sure, the colour choices may have been a too sombre for Spring, but these pieces clearly weren't designed for the young and trendy. Not that I couldn't see a few downtown girls rocking a few of these looks.

Crisp, and even a bit masculine, coats were sharp, while trousers were either super-short or super-roomy. A well-tailored collection through and through.

Peter Som Spring 2012

2011-09-09T14:04:00.000-05:00

Peter Som has always been a happy, optimistic designer. But for his Spring 2012 collection, he seems to be even sunnier, if that is at all possible- clean shapes, quirky prints, rich textures and bright brights were the order of the day. It was a non-fussy, simple collection imbued with a little girlishness, a little glamour, but plenty of practicality.

Rachel Comey Spring 2012

2011-09-08T20:14:00.004-05:00

For the most part, I thought the ideas for this collection, Rachel Comey's 2012 Spring, had the right elements- good ideas, nice fabrics... I even loved where it started, though admittedly, I didn't like where it ended up.
Cropped tops paired with loose pants weren't exactly challenging, but they worked simply because of colour schemes; but towards the end, cable knits and some drab-looking tunics and dresses threw off a very winning collection.

Nicholas K Spring 2012

2011-09-08T19:59:00.001-05:00

Starting out with a few blindingly-white pieces, the Nicholas K collection in New York this afternoon was heavy on layering, touching on grunge influences here and there. As the collection progressed, so did the colour palette. Evening wear focused on long, graceful silken gowns, while daywear was functional and more edgy.

Richard Chai Love Spring 2012

2011-09-08T19:45:00.000-05:00

For Richard Chai Love's Spring 2012 collection, it was all about patterns and bright solids, often times paired together. The silhouette was kept loose, at times a bit tailored and masculine, while lips and eyelids were neon and playful.
It was all very effortless and I especially liked a few of the menswear pieces interspersed through-out.

BCBG Max Azria Spring 2012

2011-09-08T17:14:00.001-05:00

So for BCBG Max Azria's spring 2012 collection today during New York Fashion Week, it really was just one look (colour blocking) alternated about 30 times. Asymmetrical handkerchief hems with long fan-like pleats in light, airy fabrics were plentiful as were strong prints that punctuated soft A-line silhouettes. The mood was bright and easy; the fabrics, weightless while maintaining a sense of structure.
A palette of bold brights with neutral accents (navy, and grey in particular) was juxtaposed with embroidery and tribal prints making it a very retro, but still very fresh output.

Vena Cava Spring 2012

2011-09-08T15:22:00.001-05:00

Apparently inspired by 40's films they (designers Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock) watched in their hotel room while on a research trip to Vietnam in March, the chich Spring 2012 Vena Cava collection featured cropped jackets paired with high-waisted trousers, a smocked graphic print dress, and even a maxidress that was printed with botanicals of marijuana leaves. Very functional, very summer.

The New Face

2011-09-08T14:23:00.000-05:00

If you didn't know, Rihanna is the new face of Armani Jeans, as if she hasn't been everywhere this year as it is. In a statement released on Facebook yesterday, the brand said

“The concept was based on a classic film noir, giving it a contemporary twist – sexy, yet sophisticated,”

and we can see that. Above is the first pic from the campaign, released earlier today, and I am loving it! Can't wait to see the others.

Tidbits...

2011-09-05T00:28:00.001-05:00

Lady Gaga's sister, Natalie is venturing into fashion.

Beyonce announces her pregnancy to the world at the MTV Video Music Awards, dazzles in Dolce & Gabbana.

PETA lashes out against Rihanna for wearing this teal monstrosity.

Apparently Marc Jacobs is headed to Dior...

New York Fashion Week kicks off officially on September 8th!

Alexander Wang Resort 2012

2011-07-21T02:52:00.000-05:00

While i'm not such a great fan of Alexander Wang, I have to give credit where credit is due; he is a designer who seems to be growing from strength to strength as he learns to sift through his ideas in an effort to present a fresh aesthetic, as well as wearable clothes. And wearable clothes there were in this collection!
Sure, his usual motif of sportwear-as-actual-clothes continued, but there was something so fresh and impressively minimalistic about these pieces, that even his staunchest critic would have to concede.
Introducing scuba-wear, Wang even layered the swimsuit, making it not just a thing for the beach, but an active part of an everyday look. I especially loved the ultra-cool outerwear and shirt-dresses, that i'm sure will be a hit with the New York City crowd.

Lanvin Resort 2012

2011-07-21T02:01:00.001-05:00

Is there any other designer of female clothes who has their finger on the pulse of fashion more than Alber Elbaz? The man is a GOD of design, a real stalwart who ably gives us that perfect mix of art and commercialism. I can't find any other word to use other than "exquisite" to describe these pieces.
I especially loved the use of plissé on some of the pieces, and how opulent it made them look. Speaking of opulence, the chokers, chains, beads, and pendants that decorated each neckline were a thing to behold; this is a house known equally for its accessories as its clothes, after all.
Also on display were a few pieces of Elbaz' cutesy new children's line, and I can just imagine the cost of those. No worries, as i'm sure discerning fashionista mothers out there will shell the bucks out for that.

Prada Resort 2012

2011-07-21T01:41:00.000-05:00

A Prada collection is only as strong as the bags showcased within said collection, and as such, this was a pretty strong one. Prints were juxtaposed, looking completely off at times, but in the true essence of Prada, they worked handsomely.
In what was a very prim and lady-like collection, prints were loud, jackets (whether knitted or blazer-like) added demureness and colours were lush. Patent-leather bags and clutches were given tongue-in-cheek lipstick kisses and flowers as patterns, (in an effort to make them instantly recognizable in the hands of the many celebs who will be rushing to snatch them off shelves, i'm sure) while dresses and skirts were all kept at knee-length and forties-esque.

Akris Resort 2012

2011-07-21T01:14:00.000-05:00

With knits, brights, flare-legged pants, leather, jumpsuits, paint-splatter prints, what was the one thing that tied the Akris Resort 2012 collection? The 70's.
I particularly liked how clean the designs were, even if I wasn't feeling every one. Accessories were a definite high-light, in a collection (and label) dedicated to the older fashion enthusiasts amongst us.

Balmain Resort 2012

2011-07-18T19:18:00.000-05:00

Having studied under Christophe Decarnin for two years, Olivier Rousteing is now at the head of the Balmain label. Sure, the clothes are still imbued with Decarnin's rock edge, but under Rousteing's vision, there's a bit more depth here with inspiration as varied as Las Vegas and Native America.
It's gonna take him a lot more to prove his commercial clout, but my senses tell me he's more than capable- just look at those prints and jackets!

Maison Martin Margiela Resort 2012

2011-07-18T18:54:00.000-05:00

Conceptually, the Margiela resort collection was kinda dull, (it didn't go any further than an apparent 70's grunge) and even I have to admit that some of these clothes were pretty ugly. (Yuck at those fringe pieces!) But in between, there were some nice sheer pieces (maxi-pants that look like maxi-skirts) and jackets that were actually commercial and plenty wearable.

Yves Saint Laurent Resort 2012

2011-07-18T18:41:00.000-05:00

Only like a few of the pieces for YSL; thought the resort theme was taken way too literally, and I really thought the whole anchor motif on some of the other pieces not highlighted here were a bit too tacky. When the collection was a bit more subtle was when it worked best, as seen in that black high-wasisted, flared pant suit with gold button trimmings.

Elie Saab Resort 2012

2011-07-18T18:30:00.000-05:00

Elie Saab is out to save the world, one cocktail frock and evening gown at a time, and who can blame him when they're this elegantly exquisite? What was most surprising about this collection, though, was the visibility of pant suits. Er, what? Double crepe jackets were cut close to the body with flips at the hem, and trousers were equally lean. The silhouettes weren't new and nothing was even remotely ground-breaking, but I especially liked the bright colours chosen through-out- fuchsia, torquise et al.

Fendi Resort 2012

2011-07-18T18:16:00.000-05:00

Chic and vaguely retro, the resort collection for Fendi seemed to draw on a myriad of inspirations- the beach, 60's London mod, 50's suburbian prim, even sleep wear. It was girly and all very innocent and proper, but didn't reach the giddy heights of their Fall 2011 collection.
Still, the bags and shoes were especially good; eyewear too should make a connection with consumers.

Alexander McQueen Resort 2012

2011-07-18T18:02:00.000-05:00

Sarah Burton had the world buzzing when it was revealed she was the designer of the royal wedding dress, and with these marvelous designs, it's unsurprising why she was chosen. Not so much whimsical as streamlined and completely utilitarian, the pieces for the Alexander McQueen resort 2012 collection were nonetheless beautiful and exquisitely tailored.
Emphasizing clean lines and non-fussy silhouettes, I was almost shocked at how straight-forward this collection was in its designs. But that's the thing with Burton- in her capable hands, even the simplest look can look anything but.

Model Behaviour

2011-07-18T17:34:00.004-05:00

I love it when Vogue focuses on actual models and for August, American Vogue does just that. In an editorial entitled "Double Take," and shot by Vogue go-to-man Steven Meisel, the editorial focuses on not only some great models, but some great pieces from Lanvin, Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Celine, Prada, Dries Van Noten and more- I loved the styling by Marie-Amélie Sauvé. Familiarize yourself with the girls below. (Photos courtesy of models.com)

Racquel Zimmermann

Liya Kibede

Candice Swanepoel and Miranda Kerr

Guinevere Van Seenus

Karen Elson

Fei Fei Sun

Anais Pouliot

Arizona Muse

Kristen McMenamy

Audrey Marnay

Style Week Jamaica 2011

2011-07-05T19:19:00.002-05:00

So while Caribbean Fashion Week 2011 is all but history now, model agency competitors Saint International recently wrapped up their version of fashion week last Sunday. Initially it had started about a week before CFW, but due to some recent rains, the final show, Fashion Block, was postponed till a further date. Usually the whole thing is kicked off with the mens shows, but seeing that I was way too late for that to have captured any real images, here's everything else that happened.

Kevin O'Brian

Based in Paris, couturier and close friend, Kevin O'Brian's collection (naturally, a highlight of the night dubbed, "International Mecca of Style") was all about couture elements augmented with dramatic head-pieces and such. Having worked closely with him before the show in helping to sequence and style the collection, (along with stylist Michael Atkinson) the quality of the pieces was exquisite; O'Brian's design aesthetic is second to none.

LaQuan Smith

US-based designer, and designer to young style icons such as Lady Gaga and Rihanna, presented his "Hard Candy" collection, inclusive of the gold body suit Rih rocked in the video for her smash hit, "Rude Boy." I have to admit that I liked the colours and use of neoprene-y fabrics through-out, even though I thought the collection was a bit bare at times.

Donovan DePass

I'm always excited when Donovan tells me he'll be showing a collection in Jamaica, as one of those designers lucky enough to have worked with a few important New York designers, (Vera Wang chief among these) he's actually pretty good at what he does. This collection didn't really have a theme, or at least one that I could quickly gauge, but there was definitely a punk edge to a few of the pieces. There were a few gowns here and there, and even a Greek goddess kinda silhouette, but I have a feeling Donovan's main focus was a 90's-esque insistence on asymmetrical cuts.

Now onto Fashion Block. For those of you who don't know what that is, it's an annual event held here in the streets of Kingston's central business district. (And sometimes in second city Montego Bay.) A 100 foot cat-walk is mounted in the middle of the road, serving fashion a crowd sometimes as large as 50,000.
Here's what I captured:

The running order

Runway all set up

Last minute hair and make-up

Reve Jewelry designers, Duane and Tesea

Designs from Shades of Africa

The girls, clad in designs by Gregory Williams, (who created pieces out of Soldanza, who was a main sponsor for the show, potato chips bags and even the chips themselves) make a final walk

Shena Moulton (who might I add, just walked for Christian Dior's Fall 2011 Haute Couture's collection yesterday) strikes a pose backstage

Saint International C.E.O. Deweight Peters sends his girls on

Designs by Rick B's from his "Code Red" collection

CFW 2011: Night Three

2011-06-17T19:09:00.003-05:00

Night three for Caribbean Fashion Week was a bit more eventful than the other nights, and in all honesty, I was able to sift through some pretty decent pieces through-out the night. I arrived just in time for the second segment, and was treated to performances from Beenie Man and R&B star Joe, and even with a brief blackout, (yes, you read right- A BLACKOUT!) the energy was pretty high right through. Here's the best of the runway collections I saw, and then some.

Julan

Designed by friend Juliette Dyke, Julan's collection consisted of a pre-collection made of sea island cotton in addition to the main collection which was shown after. The pre-collection was simple, emphasizing clean lines and maxi silhouettes. I personally loved the colour, and in all honesty, if Dyke had stretched this out for the entire collection, I wouldn't have had any qualms.

Here are some of the pieces from Julan's main collection. It was all about sass and bad-ass punk attitude, I even loved the runway music. There were a few pieces with some leather detailing, I absolutely loved those. Unfortunately, my camera started to screw itself around that time. Still, if you look at the very last piece, you can get an idea of what I mean. All in all, it was a very wearable collection from Julan, and a marked improvement from her collection last year.

Attitude by Ashley Martin

Ashley Martin may have emphasized presentation over content for her "Attitude" line, but it cannot be denied that there were some good pieces here. There were frills and things, but my fave pieces came towards the end with the patterned and sequined body-con gowns.

Biggy

If you didn't already know, Earl "Biggy" Turner's modus operandi is via the dancehall. With each collection, he looks to dancehall music and culture for inspiration for his pieces, and more usually than not, it works wonderfully. This season, though, I was rather bored with his collection. Sure, there were some nice colours and the usual sheer motif, but I didn't see much to be excited over.

Everblazing

But what Biggy might have lacked in content, Italian designer Milica Pesic more than made up for in her "Everblazing" collection. The collection was very urban, very Jamaican, very eye-catching. I love the chain embellishments, and I could easily see myself rocking a few of those blazers. But what I found even more uncanny was how Pesic was able to actually make the collection look soooo Jamaican. I dunno if the whole urban edge is her usual design aesthetic, or even if she designed this collection specifically for a Jamaican/Caribbean market, but whatever. It worked.

And last but not least, Gavin Douglas made a very, very small presentation with just four pieces before he discussed briefly his brain-child, a venture that would provide young and upcoming designers with the opportunity to develop their line. I loved the shoes!

CFW 2011- Night Two

2011-06-16T19:55:00.001-05:00

I arrived at CFW on Saturday night way too late to have gotten any real pics or to provide any commentary on what happened on the runway, (I hardly had time to find my ass at a party) but I sauntered through-out the crowd and got pics of everything else.

Designer Camesha Powell

Prof. Carolyn Cooper (love her necklace) and friend

Pulse models Oraine Barrett, Jaunel McKenzie and Khalil Marks

Designer Juliette Dyke in deep conversation with Pulse Investment Ltd. C.E.O. Kingsley Cooper

Juliette again, this time with designer Shenna Carby, winner of the first season of Mission Catwalk

Designer Sandra Kennedy and press

Patrons anticipating the next look coming down the runway

Not everyone stayed for the performances toward the end, but those that did, went quickly to the front to gyrate to the music of soca-star Machel Montano

And last but not least, here I am with supermodel, and friend Jeneil Williams :)

I'll have plenty of runway coverage for the next post.- DW

CFW 2011- Night One

2011-06-11T14:39:00.006-05:00

SO, ladies and gents! Last night was the first major shows for Caribbean Fashion Week. Naturally I arrived late, but I got in just in time, as apparently the show started late, too.
After searching for a drink, finding a space, saying my quick hello's, I was treated to collections from Hope Wade, Mutamba, Jahtaxtreme, among others, as well as performances from local reggae/dancehall star Tanya Stephens. Mavado also performed, but I didn't stick around that long. Here's the best of what happened on Night One:

Drenna Luna

Designed by Arlene Martin, (who I had the pleasure of meeting last night) the Drenna Luna pieces were simple, at turns elegant, free flowing and emphasized clean cuts. Sophistication seemed to be the theme, while free movement clearly influenced silhouette. I would have loved to have seen a bit more colour to make the pieces pop, (like that pink on Nell) but good stuff nonetheless.

Milkaya Laijah

Designed by Milkaya Henry, the Milkaya Laijah collection (from France) was one with a unifying motif through-out- a kaleidoscopic Versace-esque diamond emphasizing a cinched waist, and an almost-Grecian silhouette in some pieces.

Hope Wade

Hope Wade's collection wasn't so much a collection as a display of clothes, but I at least liked it texturally. Thematically, it was all over the place, but there were a few strong pieces through-out.

Mutamba

Mutamba also didn't seem to care about any real theme, but I at least liked a few of the pieces. Especially that last one before the final walk.

So that was Night One. To be honest, the show itself was a bit flat, and most designers really showed nothing to get very excited about. Here's to a more exciting second night.- DW

The Wedding of the Century!

2011-04-30T14:25:00.005-05:00

So Kate Middleton and Prince William got married this week, (as If you didn't know) and she wore a dress designed by Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen. I'm sure everyone saw the dress, and i'll get to it eventually in the post, but first, let's go through what everyone else in attendance wore:

Mother of the bride, Carole Middleton,was all smiles in her "Something Blue" attire.

Grand-daughters to Queen Elizabeth II, Princess Eugenie wore a cobalt blue Vivienne Westwood outfit, while Princess Beatrice wore a blush Valentino number, both in Phillip Treacy hats. Is it me, or do they look like Cinderella's evil step-sisters?

Celebrity power couple David and a pregnant Victoria Beckham were also in attendance. David wore a more traditional penguin-esque tail coat, while Victoria wore six-inch Louboutin's and a dress of her own design, head-piece also by Phillip Treacy.

Tara Palmer Tomkinson was just... They should have turned her back at the church door for so much damn blue. Distasteful.

UK Prime Minister, David Cameron and wife Sarah, who, while looking fine in a ruched silk-crepe Burberry dress, was the only invited guest to have not worn a hat. Inappropriate.

As the maid of honour, Pippa, the bride's sister, also wore Alexander McQueen designed by Sarah Burton. Divine.

Doesn't she just take your breath away?

The groom didn't look too shabby himself. He opted to wear the official uniform for a Colonel of the Irish Guards, one of his honorary titles. A garter sash and star, his Royal Air Force wings and a Golden Jubilee medal lent further dignity to the look.

I'm not usually one for monochrome looks, but Princess Letizia of Spain looked awesome in an elegant sheer-and-lace dress with floral embroidery accessorized with matching satin pumps and a netted-feathered hat.

I just love Queen Elizabeth II! She looked every bit the lady in a sunny Angela Kelly wool crepe dress and coat paired with a ladylike satchel and pumps, pearls and diamond brooch.

Harry looked dashing in the uniform of the Captain of the Household Cavalry, a navy blue military suit with aiguilettes, cross-belt and gold waist belt.

Crown Princess Victoria of Sweden and Prince Daniel of Sweden looked terrific. I love the peach colour on Victoria, and the sun hat! And that wrap detail is very chic.

Chelsea Davy, Prince Harry's on-again, off-again girlfriend chose a teal Alberta Ferretti dress and jacket combo paired with a fascinator by Victoria Grant. I think she looks terrible.

Zara Phillips, eldest grand-daughter to Queen Elizabeth II, arrived with fiance English rugby star, Mike Tindall. Zara, wore a Phillip Treacy hat, and what appears to be an Akris coat-dress. The two will reportedly wed in June or July.

Top 10 Collections of Fall 2011!

2011-04-11T17:39:00.005-05:00

Well, I have to say I was pretty impressed with this season's collections from New York right through to Paris, so to say it was hard coming up with this list, is pretty much an understatement. I loved so many collections, (Elie Saab, Emmanuel Ungaro, Miu Miu, Chanel, to name a few) alas, there can only be ten. So here goes; my ten fave collections for Fall 2010 RTW:

10. Haider Ackermann

Having produced my fave collection last season, I surely wasn't disappointed this go round. Sure, the mood was a little darker this time, but the aesthetic was generally the same- draping juxtaposed with new shapes, all seen through the prism of sexual tension.

9. Celine

To talk about the best that fashion has to offer today and not mention Phoebe Philo's work with the house of Celine is kinda not getting it. Her designs are cutting edge, completely modern (with just a slight whiff of vintage) and altogether very sharp and well-tailored. This collection was another excellent one. Oh, and those coats? Beautiful!

8. Alexander McQueen

I really hope they aren't planning to replace head of design Sarah Burton at McQueen any time soon, because if there were any doubts as to whether she can carry on the original designer's name, there should be none by now. Burton's aesthetic isn't as dark at McQueen's was, at his best, but you know what? It doesn't need to be- she approaches each subsequent collection with such reverence and purity, it's almost easy to imagine McQueen sketched these designs himself.

7. Emilio Pucci

Well, what can I say? Peter Dundas knows what celebrities want. And what they want is glamour and hot, hot sex. The colour palette this season was gorgeous, but it was the corseted figure and haute-edge that made this collection stand out for me.

6. Prada

It was a collection, for me, that was very 60's London-esque; but knowing how Miuccia Prada's brain works, I can assure you that the inspiration didn't stop there. So there was 20's-style coats, snakeskin, coat dresses and those really weird scale-like sequins. Some critics didn't like it, but who cares? This is Prada; bad press won't hurt her one bit.

5. Givenchy

So while rumours are still swirling as to whether Riccardo Tisci will be placed at the head of Dior now that Galliano has been sacked, the Fall collection for Givenchy couldn't have come at a better time. It's funny to note how critics and fashion people have come around to Tisci in recent years, considering his aesthetic has been one that they really didn't get at first. Sure, he's come a long way in terms of editing, but the fact remains that he constructs one-of-a-kind, wearable, beautiful clothes and accessories. Continuing with the theme of the Fall menswear collection, the show was more of an event, (with Kanye West, Florence Welch and Liv Tyler in the front row) evidence of how much impact Tisci has as a designer.

4. Marc Jacobs

Watching this collection via live stream, I was like Ooooooh! Aaaaaaaah! with each new look that came out. There were Dalmatian spots, latex, lace, fur; indeed, it was a wonderful juxtaposition of textures. The collection, touted to be influenced by sex shops and dominatrices, was soundtracked to Marilyn Manson's "The Beautiful People," and beautiful it was.

3. Dries Van Noten

Where do I even begin with this collection? Well...
There’s a sentiment about his collections I particularly appreciate. His vision of prints, mixed media, and easy draping is extremely likable for how effortlessly these fun looks can fit into everyday life. His girl comes across lithe, well put-together, and somewhat quirky. The mixing of fabrics is unique, the prints are delightfully fun, and the length and structure, for this collection, created a very relaxed silhouette. Better yet, this entire show felt effortless; the clothes are beautifully cut while the fabrics give the impression of richly nuanced luxury. What's mostly impressive though about his collections, and indeed this one, is how highly pragmatic Van Noten’s designs are; these are smart clothes for the smart woman made by a smart man.

2. Proenza Schouler

I'm surprised by how high this collection is on my list, but what can I say? It was excellent. Designers, baby-faced Jack and Lazaro are making me eat my words with each new collection, but when they're this good, that's fine. Every thing was beautiful and playful, and the pixelated prints were right on. More known for their accessories (shoes, bags) than their clothes, it's amazing how unlike their other collections, I was impressed by every piece that came out.

1. Fendi

Here's an interesting tidbit- I didn't like this collection the first time I viewed it. Weird? I know. But the more I viewed it, the more I fell in love with it.

The collection best exemplifies Lagerfeld’s versatility and ability to make more than one line and to make them wearable and perfect, eclipsing even his work with Chanel. Teaming up with Fendi partner Silvia Venturini Fendi to create a wearable and wonderful collection, Lagerfeld presented colourful coats, all completely luxurious. The collection blended mink, chinchilla, sable and fox, creating some truly sumptuous and wonderful outerwear. Outside of the fur-work, there was plenty to love, too: the coloured stockings, the goggles, the bags and shoes- it was all a very quirky collection with so many stand-out, well-tailored pieces. Absolutely amazing!

Christophe Decarnin leaves Balmain

2011-04-08T17:26:00.000-05:00

Christophe Decarnin, the French designer whose sexy rocker pagoda-shouldered jackets and tiny minidresses turned Paris' once-floundering Paris house of Balmain into one of the world's hottest labels, is leaving, the fashion house said Wednesday.
Speculation about Decarnin has swirled since the notoriously shy designer failed to appear for a bow after his fall-winter 2011-12 ready-to-wear show last month. It was rumored he'd had a nervous breakdown and was in a mental hospital, but a spokesman for the house dismissed the speculation, saying Decarnin missed the show because he was resting on doctor's orders.
Wednesday's brief statement from Balmain didn't provide any details about the reasons for Decarnin's departure, nor did it name his replacement.
Praise for the departing designer was kept to a minimum.
"Decarnin contributed, along with the studio, to the success of these past years," Balmain CEO Alain Hivelin is quoted as saying.
Founded by Pierre Balmain in 1945, the label was among the vanguards of postwar Paris fashion, along with houses founded by Christian Dior and Cristóbal Balenciaga. Like his crosstown rivals, Balmain became a favorite of royalty — of both the European and Hollywood variety, including Marlene Dietrich.
The founder's death in 1982 ushered in a slow decline, which culminated with the label's 2003 filing for bankruptcy protection. It hired and fired a series of designers before settling two years later on Decarnin, a then 42-year-old who cut his teeth at Paco Rabanne. He was named artistic director in 2007, the statement said.
Decarnin soon found his footing, sending out sexed up, rock-infused pagoda shouldered jackets and sequin-covered mini-dresses with sky-high price tags that completely reversed the label's fortunes, transforming Balmain into a must-have label for the global glitterati.
Critics chastised Decarnin for sending out the same looks season after season, but that didn't seem to bother the legions of fans who eagerly shelled out thousands of dollars for hole-riddled T-shirts or upward of $10,000 for dresses so short they could be confused with old-time bathing costumes.
Wednesday's statement did not say what Decarnin's future plans were.
These are turbulent times for Paris fashion, with last month's sacking of disgraced Dior designer John Galliano, abruptly dismissed amid a scandal over a video in which he's heard to praise Adolf Hitler.
Louis Vuitton also announced last month that it had parted with its menswear designer, Paul Helbers, who was replaced immediately by Kim Jones, formerly of Dunhill.

(Source: The Seattle Times)

CFDA 2011 Nominations!

2011-03-16T18:58:00.000-05:00

Tonight Diane von Furstenberg and Steven Kolb announced the nominations for the 2011CFDA awards. Furstenberg told the crowd that the organization would be putting together an auction for the victims of the Japan natural disasters. “We’re going to put together big packages. Designers, clients, suppliers–everyone is getting involved.” Kudos to them. As for the nominees, read them below.

The Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award: Marc Jacobs

Eugenia Sheppard Award: Hilary Alexander

International Award: Phoebe Philo

Fashion Icon Award: Lady Gaga

Eleanor Lambert Award: InStyle‘s Hal Rubenstein

Swarovski Award for Accessories
Alejandro Ingelmo
Pamela Love
Eddie Borgo
Jason Wu

Swarovski Award for Menswear
Alexander Wang
3.1 Phillip Lim
Robert Geller

Swarovski Award for Womenswear
Joseph Altuzarra
The Row
Prabal Gurung

Menswear Designer of the Year
Patrik Ervell
Michael Bastian
Simon Spurr

Womenswear Designer of the Year
Marc Jacobs
Alexander Wang
Proenza Schouler

Congrats to all nominees!

Emanuel Ungaro Fall/Winter 2011

2011-03-16T17:51:00.000-05:00

With a mostly-black colour scheme, Giles Deacon's pieces for Ungaro were sexual and oh so provocative. I loved everything here, and was impressed at how much there was to take in, even though the collection itself was very minimalistic.
Practically everything came in lean cuts, enhanced with incredible Lesage embroideries, including wolf and eagle heads on great biker jackets and sweatshirt, with the collection mainly sticking to a body-con silhouette.

Fendi Fall/Winter 2011

2011-03-16T16:22:00.000-05:00

Karl Lagerfeld knows how to stick to a theme. Known more for his work with Chanel, the designer uses the Fendi label to present more wearable, utilitarian clothes. Nowhere was this more obvious than the Fendi Fall 2011 collection.
Think New York, think lady in her 30's, think Upper East Side, think colour, and chances are you'll get the collection. I have to admit I didn't particularly like it when I first viewed it two weeks ago. But you know what? The more I look at it, the less I can find a look I actually don't like.
It's a superb collection- the colours, the jackets, the furs, the skirts, the stockings, the goggles, the bags; everything is so well-tailored and -styled. Sure, this isn't a collection for the younger, more Downtown set, but I can easily see older, less trend-seeking ladies milling about, whether to the office or even a fashion show in some of these looks.
The mix of textures- fox, crocodile, shearling, mink, Persian lamb- was exquisite, but the most impressive thing about this collection was how chic, yet practical these clothes are. Bravo.

Alexander McQueen Fall/Winter 2011

2011-03-16T15:41:00.000-05:00

With exquisite, crisp tailoring and incredible, fantastic detailing, the Fall RTW 2011 collection from the house of McQueen under the guidance of Sarah Burton, once again proves that the label is in great hands.
It was a collection that teetered between black and white colour basics, but in essence, there really wasn't any pedestrian about this collection at all. Velvets, organza and mink furs added a luxe feel to some very Victorian-esque gowns and jackets, and while I didn't personally like some of the more zipper-ed pieces, I have to admit that even those didn't detract from what was most definitely one of the best collections this season.

Balenciaga Fall/Winter 2011

2011-03-03T15:19:00.001-05:00

The full skirt is making a comeback this season, it seems, and it seems Nicolas Ghesquière got the memo. The collection, admittedly, wasn't as cutting-edge as other Balenciaga collections seasons past, but one would be hard-pressed to not agree that it was at least very wearable.
Fantasy prints featuring lizards and flowers were adorned on hip-slung, folded-petal skirts covering the knees. Ghesquière called his new print, a multi-coloured dream-landcsape on white silk, "almost like a hallucination, like when you are a child and everything seems bigger than it is".
The key silhouette was a larger boxy top half, and a tapering lower half, with height added in the form of high-heeled, coloured snakeskin or black and white, multi-strapped sandals and ankle-boots.
Dimension also played a big part in a series of dresses in primary colors, all covered in a string mesh.
Combining Renaissance court neck and shoulder ruffles, high-tech sequin panes, silk panels in mixes of bright white and Roman imperial purple, Ghesquiere whipped up a great finale of tough yet dreamy dresses and tunics worn over neoprene leggings.

Dolce & Gabbana Fall/Winter 2011

2011-03-02T20:32:00.000-05:00

With every other model wearing a variation of a double-breasted black jacquard jacket with matching trousers cropped right below the knee, a porkpie hat, and oxfords, it seemed that for Dolce and Gabbana, masculine is the new feminine for Fall 2011. But while that may be true, the designers really were just playing with a hot trend in fashion these days- feminine, but masculine.
The show progressed alternating between one boy look, one girl. On the "fellas": crisp shirts, low-slung pants, boxy vests, bright sequined evening jackets, and fur coats inset with stars. And for the gals: plenty of sheaths, plus corset dresses and billowy floor-length numbers in bigger star patterns, lace motifs, and musical-note prints.As one can see, I was more intrigued by the "male" pieces. Should I be embarrassed to say I would wear most of them?

Gareth Pugh Fall/Winter 2011

2011-03-02T19:02:00.000-05:00

Staging his showing in the Ecole des Beaux Arts, Pugh presented Stars Wars-style designs, razor-sharp in black leather, bisected with golden zips, and worn with fearsome wedge-sole boots.
Sculpted, leather "frock-coats", with skin-tight trousers, suggested the cyber-age. Striped leather ponchos, cloaks in chiffon and the extreme-palazzo trousers, as wide as a house, worn by both the male and female models offered a softer silhouette and suggested Pugh's usual gothic sensibilities.
"Articulated" leather body-con dresses, engineered in remarkable set-square patterns, defined the silhouette.
Brilliant blue crepe and gleaming gold metallic sequins, embroidered in a tile pattern, provided a colour burst to offset all the blackness. As much as I did like the collection however, and while his use of colour was certainly shocking (not to mention how beautiful all the gold work was) Gareth Pugh, in all honesty, could have come up with a better, more wearable collection; yes, I have that much faith in him. Still, for what it was, it was just fine enough.

Dries Van Noten Fall/Winter 2011

2011-03-02T18:28:00.000-05:00

I can't even begin to explain how much of a fan i've become of Dries Van Noten as a label and the man as a designer. This collection, though, certainly explains why. Aswirl in prints (prints that were reminiscent, to me at least, of Tisci-era Givenchy), the collection masterfully mixed fabrics multiple fabrics, often in one look. The message was clear: everything matches.

His dazzling patchwork-potpourri of colour, print, texture, exotic skins and fabrics was perfectly in tune with the opulent gilded and frescoed interiors of the Paris' historic 17th-18th century Hotel de Ville where the show was staged. The mix-and-don't-match effect of the collection extended to the shoes and ankle-boots which came in a collage of coloured leather and python-skin, with heels in wood and even metal.
Peasant-dresses in blocks of up to six colours, had slightly raised waists, full sleeves, a square bodice, and a dirndl-style skirt; or in the Cossack-look tunics, with beaded sleeves or inserts of velvet.
Inspired by the Ballets Russes and the idea of meeting David Bowie, Van Noten combined up to five different silk patterns in one dress, applying a gilded finish to ornamental snakeskin appliqués, mixing three or four different coloured tweeds in a zippered bomber-jacket and and adding black sequined sleeves to gold brocade coats.

Emilio Pucci Fall/Winter 2011

2011-02-26T22:54:00.001-05:00

Ultra-sexy and über-feminine, the Emilio Pucci collection from designer Peter Dundas was a certified win! The cleavage was enhanced in sinuous dresses which featured a high, jeweled collar above a cutaway décolletage while fairytale ballgowns emerging in ivy-hued silk were slashed to reveal spine, thigh and cleavage, glittering sequins and crystals in gold and forest-green fashioning one sleeve. Also a part of the proceedings today, was a capsule collection for men that Dundas debuted alongside his womenswear.
Fabrics were sumptuous, coming in all manner of materials- from loden wool, to black velvet embellished with crystals arrayed in diamond patterns, as well as a reintepretion of classic Pucci prints in hand-painted renderings. Flawless!

Jil Sander Fall/Winter 2011

2011-02-26T22:16:00.000-05:00

After going through neons, florals and knit, Raf Simons' Fall 2011 collection for the house of Jil Sander ended up right where it began- black.
The collection was tailored in bold volumes enhanced by down-filled garments ranging from voluptuous skirts to oversized jackets; certainly, what started as minimal, ended up maximal in very little time.
There was a lot of black, but it served to set off the oh-so-beautiful colors: red, royal blue, yellow and green, as well as an old-fashioned granny-like floral print.
Knitwear played a major role with chunky two-tone sweaters and bright pullovers with geometric designs.
Indeed, this was a winning collection; one certainly designed for a confident, non-fussy woman. Full of clean, sharp line, and bold, architectural silhouettes and cuts, this collection was atypical of Simons, a designer who does exactly what he wants to do, when he wants to do it- crisp, un-trendy and completely now.

Versace Fall/Winter 2011

2011-02-26T21:37:00.000-05:00

Filled with flower-y curlicues, and overtly militaristic influences, the Versace Fall 2011 collection presented in Milan was simple and minimalistic, yet fresh and effective.
It wasn't cutting-edge, but it certainly hit all the right notes; the silhouette was kept close to the body, and colours rarely shifted from black and white.
Models strode out in black leather military-style coats with gold Medusa buttons- the Versace house trademark- and tunics with open backs, as well as purple rollneck jumpers matched with leather pleated skirts and fur neck-warmers in white, purple and green offset by plunging v-shaped neck lines which updated the LBD.

Fall/Winter 2011: Style Forecast (3)

2011-02-24T23:59:00.000-05:00

Draping (Costello Tagliapetra)

Stripes (Jason Wu)

Peplum (Burberry Prorsum)

Maxi (Doo.Ri)

Fur (Frank Tell)

Prada Fall/Winter 2011

2011-02-24T23:36:00.000-05:00

Miuccia Prada, unlike most fashion designers, says she is happy when the high street copies her clothes. For Prada, fashion is about turning the ideas in her head, ideas about herself, about women, about the world- into clothes. Clothes that will be seen everywhere from magazines and red carpets, to the streets, knock-off's or not.
The idea behind her Fall/Winter 2011 Prada collection, the designer said backstage in an interview after the show, was "not a girl dressed like a lady, but a lady rediscovering her innocence." After last season's brightly coloured, wacky collection, it was a return to what Prada excels at: taking apart clothes we think we understand, and putting them back together in a way that is slightly unsettling, weird and just plain tacky. No one does tacky as well as Prada.
That being said, these were some of her weirdest, tackiest and most gorgeous pieces yet. The silhouette- a drop-waisted, big-buttoned coat dress to mid-thigh, with a knee-high boot- seemed to signal a kind of innocent, ladylike competence. Indeed, there was a whiff of the 50's via the flapper-like scaly-fringe dresses, and 60's suburban prim-ness à la First Lady Jackie Kennedy and London-esque mod shapes.
Coat-dresses came in powdery colors, sheer solids or windowpane checks, decorated with contrast piping, shag fur or jingling silver-dollar-sized paillettes.
The whole thing reminded me of a little girl running amok in her mother's wardrobe, pairing odd elements together, but still looking as cute and precious as ever; indeed, the collection smacked of that same very kind of innocence.

Burberry Prorsum Fall/Winter 2011

2011-02-21T19:02:00.001-05:00

Maybe I have come to expect entirely too much from designer Christopher Bailey, but I did not like this collection. Yes, I got it- it was 60's era London; as colourful as it was, a lot of the collection looked very mod. But while I particularly didn't mind the colours, I hated the proportions; to my eyes, they were ill-fitting and just plain odd.
As usual, Bailey riffed on the brand’s signature trench: some fashioned from white silk jacquard made to look and feel like knits, others came in tweed and had a Sherlock Holmes feel, but then when Bailey tried to add a touch of luxe via fur on the shoulders and collars, I cringed.
I'm all for a designer trying new things and indeed, Bailey did by adding plenty of new proportions- funnel-neck lumberjack check, quilted cape styles with flaring kimono sleeves, but too many of these silhouettes were unwieldy, and at times too retro, too referenced; and while outerwear was the focus, there really was nothing outside of that to be impressed by.
Naturally, I highlighted the looks I thought worked, which were too far and in between in a 50-odd piece collection. Consider me disappointed.

Jonathan Saunders Fall/Winter 2011

2011-02-21T18:04:00.000-05:00

So apparently no one told Jonathan Saunders that he was designing for Fall, as mostly all of his pieces were bright, light and cheery. Not to mention colourful.
primary colours, presenting a collection of sleek, featherlight dresses in jewel tones of rich red, green and blue. Models with hair pulled back in clean, simple ponytails wore high-collared silk satin blouses and below-the-knee, multi-layered, often multi-colured sheath dresses. Although high slits showed the occasional flash of thigh, the overall style was conservative and very demure. Chunky platform shoe-boots in metallic and velvet kept the look modern, balancing the lightness of the silk garments.
Burgundy was a key colour, with many blouses, blazers and dresses also made with colourful, intricate art nouveau-inspired silk screen prints- a signature technique of Saunders.
“I was looking at something that felt kind of old fashion and seductive and kind of decadent, slightly. Something I wouldn’t look at normally for references,” Saunders said. “You know, I like graphic, minimal, modern things, and I just made myself look at it in a different way.”