Friday, September 30, 2011
So with a reported five or so benches collapsing, the drama and suspense began at Balenciaga's Spring 2012 runway show before the clothes had even come out. When they did however, in true Balenciaga-style, they were something to talk about.
Designer Ghesquière certainly pushed the silhouette with the last five or so dresses in the collection, and while I never got those, the pieces that came before were impressive. Quotidian color-blocked jackets were a highlight, their shoulders exaggerated and masculine. Everything here came off like haute couture, and really, Ghesquière would have it no other way.
Clean and minimalistic, the collection from Hussein Chalayan utilised a free, loose silhouette, with an emphasis on masculine, boxy jackets.
The collection started in monochrome before bursting into soft yellows and erstwhile prints, before shifting back to all whites. It's a collection that was definitely more function than form, something we don't always get from the couture master.
Continuing the label's weirdness, the Spring 2012 collection from the house of Margiela was all about the deconstruction of clothes; really, nothing new to the label. But what was most definitely fresh about the collection was how wearable most all the pieces were. From the slip-dresses that opened the collection to the masculine coats through-out, this collection was surely aimed to impact retail. And I don't see why it shouldn't.
Wednesday, September 21, 2011
With interesting shapes, and a loose silhouette, the colourful collection from 3.1 Phillip Lim for Spring 2012 was well-tailored and light.
Sportswear seemed to be a point of reference; but with some gorgeous silk pants, (and nifty use of nylon) as Lim described backstage, it was all about "sophisticated youth." With loose panels, there was an unfinished edge through-out, but it was still all very chic.
Tuesday, September 20, 2011
I didn't see the runway presentation live stream for Marc Jacobs' Spring collection, but I heard it was fantastic. But really, if you're even familiar with the Jacobs name, you know he's every bit the showman. However, I felt more than a pang of disappointment having viewed the pieces in the collection; there was hardly much to wear in real life. Sure, Jacobs is a couturier at heart but he's always had a knack of sifting through complex and grandiose ideas, coming up with stand-out, iconic pieces. Not so much this time around.
With some fringe, some gingham, some denim, the silhouette was mainly 1920's-esque replete with flapper dresses. But not only did the clothes look dull for Spring, but they fell flat given the name attached to them. Maybe he's focusing on his supposed negotiations to take over at Dior, but whatever the cause, consider this collection a major disappointment.
With a free-flowing sihouette, the collection from J. Mendel was all about pleating. It was all well-tailored, but unfortunately a bit dull at times. Minimalism and colour-blocking were other motifs utilised, but one gets the sense that this collection could have been a whole lot better than it actually was.