Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Rodarte Spring/Summer 2011

Inspired by their native Northern California and its redwood forests, the Mulleavy sisters whipped up some wearable pieces this time around for the often avant-garde house of Rodarte.

From the very start, there was something decidedly different about this go-around. Maybe it was the lack of darkness, maybe it was the simple runway presentation... Whatever it was, one thing was for certain- the sisters didn't abandon their affinity to experiment with fabric treatment.

The designers hipped up bold wood-panel prints and leaf-like embroideries on sportswear, silk skirts and dresses. Eventually, the nature theme gave way to porcelain patterns. Shapes remained the same- 70's-style pants, layered skirts, button-downs and draped peplums. “

Marchesa Spring/Summer 2011

Exquisitely wrought, orientalist-inspired pieces dominated Marchesa's Spring 2011 collection.

With heavily bejeweled necklines, hand-painted florals on rolling sculptural drapes, and grand obilike loops, floor-length gowns oozed glamour with sweeping curves, exaggerated drapes and folds.

You know the saying "the devil is in the details"? Well, for Marchesa, the drama is in the details.

Salvatore Ferragamo Spring/Summer 2011

For Spring 2011, designer Massimiliano Giornetti in his second women's collection delivered several interpretations of the free-spirited bohemian/gypsy look. With a few smart suits here and there, there were peasant dresses galore, lots macramé and crochet, some eye-catching bikini's and YSL-esque safari jackets.

3.1 Phillip Lim Spring/Summer 2011

In a pre-show interview, Lim said “I want to push the idea that elegance doesn’t have to mean mature." For his Spring 2011 collection, he was spot-on.

Not straying too far from his usual clean sportswear aesthetic and neutral colour palettes, Lim experimented with sheer, coming up with some of the finest pieces so far this season.

With translucent organza, nude tulle and embroidered varieties of black lace, it was a beautiful, sophisticated and well-focused outing.

The overlapping geometry, repeated throughout, felt chicly layered, with trim and structured shapes adding subdued, subtle intrigue.

Friday, September 24, 2010

Vera Wang Spring/Summer 2011

Here's a shocker- Vera Wang used colours in her collection other than black and ceremonial white. The usual elements remained, though: ruched tulle, draped sheaths; this time, however, with inspiration from, of all places, Kill Bill. Kill, she did.

Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2011

Aside from the satin interlude, I really dug this collection from MJ. It had all the right elements- colour, halter dresses, strapless jumpsuits, long flowy dresses... Indeed everything, giant fabric flowers included, seemed to reference 70's Parisian flair. If this all sounds a bit too YSL, well it was. But in the capable hands of Marc Jacobs, it was merely a reference point than a ripping off.

Diane von Furstenberg Spring/Summer 2011

With eye-popping graffiti prints, chic practicality, the usual girlishness, and some sporty brights, the collection from DVF with a high sense of sophistication carrying through to the accessories and styling.

Tailoring was the collection's strong suit, in the form of a navy pantsuit shown with a lemon yellow shirt and a sky blue belt; a rust silk blouse matched with turquoise pants and a blush pink belt; a loose-fitting coral top teamed with a violet knee-length skirt.